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What is an asscher cut diamond? |
An Asscher Cut diamond is an octagonal diamond with a square shape and step-cut rectilinear facets. Deep pavilion and high crown of the cut bestow brilliance and its signature appeal. It is named after Joseph Asscher, who created the cut in 1902.
Asscher Diamond
This distinctive cut is a variation of the emerald cut. The stone is cut concentrically with rectilinear facets running parallel to the girdle.
When first designed, the cut gave the diamond a square shape which would have made its corners susceptible to chipping. The designer dreaded this to happen during the setting process or in the course of daily wear. As a safeguard, he cropped the stone on all four corners. The diamond thus acquired an octagonal shape. And yet, it appears squarish since the corner cropping are small in dimension.
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Salient Features of Asscher Diamonds: |
- The asscher diamond is octagonal in shape but appears more like a square..
- The Asscher cut is also referred to as a square emerald cut. In fact, it is uncanny how similar the newest varieties of Asscher cut diamonds are to the square emerald cut.
- It has steps-like rectilinear facets running parallel to the girdle and along the perimeter of the stone..
- Asscher diamonds usually have 58 facets like the round brilliant diamond. The layout of these facets is what elicits the amazing, vintage look.
- A hallmark of asscher diamonds is their uniquely angled and cropped corners, giving them a timeless appearance.
- With large facet steps and a high crown, this cut produces a unique brightness unlike any other diamond shape.
- Jewelers often compare its sparkle to an endless hallway with reflective mirrors
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History of the Asscher Cut: |
The legendary lapidary, Joseph Asscher designed and patented this cut in 1902. He was inspired by the emerald cut which was mostly used for cutting gemstone emerald at the time. In order to distinguish his new cut, he created a variation on the emerald cut. He achieved this with a squarish shape and rectilinear facets running parallel to the girdle..
It was the first ever patented diamond cut. The patent protected the cut from being copied by other diamantieres. This patent lasted until world war II after which it was lost.
Much later, in 1980, the Asscher Diamond Company evolved into the Royal Asscher Diamond Company. Descendants of the Asscher family, Edward Asscher and his brother Joop reinvented the cut into the Royal Asscher Cut. The refashioned cut has 74 facets (instead of 58) and a higher crown. The extra facets provide extra rebound to incident light yielding extra brilliance. The new cut is exclusive to the Royal Asscher jewellery brand.
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Brilliance in an Asscher Cut Diamond: |
The bountiful brilliance produced by this cut is one of its key selling point. Large step facets and the high crown of this cut together produce a brilliance that takes your breath away. The light-dissemination of an Asscher cut diamond is like an endless hallway with reflective mirrors.
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Do These diamonds sparkle? |
The Asscher-cut diamond emphasizes clarity rather than sparkle . As such, their sparkle is not as radiant as the round brilliant diamond.
A round diamond has smaller facets, creating more surface area that scatters light in all directions causing the sparkle. On the other hand, the Asscher diamond has larger facets, which direct light up from the bottom of the diamond to its top. This movement of light is not geared to create optimum sparkle.
They may be relatively less sparkling. Nevertheless, Asscher cut diamonds are remarkably ravishing because of their brilliance and neat geometric aspects.
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How Do You Pick An Asscher Diamond? |
Choose a diamond with an ideal or excellent polish. An ideal polish prevents the sullying of facets with stains or scratches.
Also, take into consideration the length-to-width ratio of the diamond. A length to width ratio of 1.00 – 1.03 is ideal. This ratio yields a symmetrical square looking diamond.
Study the cut grade of the diamond as well. It is true that only round brilliant diamonds are graded for cut. Yet, you should explore corresponding proportions in the Asscher cut. Choose a cut grade equivalent to Excellent or Very Good. These cuts return a lot of light to the eye making the diamond bright and full of zest.
Look for the signature concentric squares while looking down in the table. This will help you ascertain if your diamond is well-cut and the facets are well-positioned. And, you see the dazzling brilliance of your Asscher diamond ring in this position.
Length to Width Ratio Determines the Shape of The Diamond:
Length To Width Ratio of Asscher Diamonds
We know that, visually, this diamond is square. Evidently, a length to width ratio of 1:1 will give a perfect square. Yet, the proportion varies and can be 1:1.05, 1:1.08, 1:1.0 or somewhere in between these values. Having said that, your eye still perceives such proportions as squares. Nevertheless, you should be perceptive of these proportions while choosing a diamond.
Choice of Color is Subjective:
Please also go into the color attribute of the diamond. Asscher cuts are relatively deeper with large open facets. Thus, they tend to show more color than round-brilliant. Depending on your budget, choose a D to G color grade diamond. For bigger stones, choose higher color grades.
Further, I-color diamonds will still appear white in rose gold and yellow gold settings because of the color shade of the metal.
Also, diamond color grade is assigned by its body color and not its face-up color. You can use this to your advantage to pick a J or K color diamond appearing white in the face-up view.
At the same time, color-selection is subject to individual taste and choice. Slightly warm G-H colors may appeal to some, while cool colorlessness of D-F diamonds may appeal to others.
The Clarity attribute:
The step cuts of this diamond present clean facet lines and entice your eyes into the center of the stone. The secret of their charm is their transparency. And yet this trait is unforgiving to the inclusions making them more visible. For this reason, clarity is a vital attribute for displaying the diamond’s flawless appearance. As such choose a clarity grade of VS2 and above.
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Is Asscher Cut Diamond More Expensive? |
Asscher cut diamonds may perhaps be more expensive than some of the other diamond shapes. However, they are not the most expensive.
Other attributes being similar, a round brilliant is the most expensive. Also, Pear and Marquise are generally more expensive than Asscher. However, Other fancy cuts like Oval, Emerald, Radiant, Princess, Heart and Cushion are typically less expensive. We should keep in mind that this is not a hard and fast rule. Cut proportions, quality of polish and vagaries of fashion can make one shape more desirable and expensive than another.
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Asscher Cut During Art Deco Period: |
This cut was designed in 1902. However, it achieved true glory with the advent of the Art Deco era around the 1920s. This was triggered by the industrial revolution. An idea of modernity percolated the society. Geometry influenced the Architecture and fashion of the time. By corollary, jewelry of the time too donned the geometric influence.
The Art Deco Period (1920-1935) produced dazzling jewelry that was dramatically different from the jewelry of the previous periods. Consequently, design of jewelry went from soft colors and flowing lines of Art Nouveau to bright colors and straight lines. Art Deco jewelry was characterized by symmetry and a streamlined look, which was coordinated with new geometric gem cuts.
High-end European jewelers, reputed houses like Cartiers and nobility all embraced the geometric proportions of the Asscher cut. What’s more, Art Deco lovers considered the square facets of this cut to be modern and very attractive. Examples of Asscher-cut jewelry started appearing in the Antwerp Diamond District during the 1920s.
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Asscher Diamond Today: |
With the passage of time, this diamond cut was all but forgotten. However, Hollywood stars such as Jessica Alba & Gwyneth Paltrow, have adorned their hands with Asscher-cut engagement rings in recent years. Both celebrities are well-known for wearing accessories with understated elegance. Consequently, the cut is seeing a booming surge in popularity.
Jewelry lovers who want to look beyond the ubiquitous round brilliant as also those who like geometric shapes with neat lines fall in love with this cut. People who prefer elegance in simplicity are also charmed by this cut.
Read Another Excellent Article on Asscher Diamond Here: http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/bridal/know-how/asscher-cut-diamond-engagement-rings/
Read About The Famous Krupp Elezabeth Taylor Asscher Cut Diamond Here: Krupp Diamond
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Stunning Center Cushion Halo Asscher Diamond Wedding Ring Set 1.60 ctw 14K White Gold |
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Read About More Diamond Shapes As Follows
| Round Brilliant Diamond | Marquise Diamond |
| Princess Cut Diamonds | Baguette Diamonds |
| Emerald Cut Diamond |
